What Do the “X”s in My Stetson Cowboy Hat Mean?

Among the key images associated with the Wild West and the expansion of the United States in the 19th century is an icon that combines form and function with unparalleled durability: the cowboy hat. The keenest observers may have already noticed that, much like the bottles of moonshine dear to the American backcountry, cowboy hats are sometimes marked with a certain number of "X"s, most often engraved in the leather band inside the hat. And just as the number of "X"s on a bottle of "shine" indicates a stronger alcohol content, the "X"s in a cowboy hat indicate increasingly high-quality craftsmanship as their number increases.

But what about the details? How can we know exactly what proportions of fibers make up the felt of our Stetson cowboy hats? Do the "X"s mean the same thing when it comes to straw hats? Is it a standardized value? Here are some questions we propose to explore in this article.

The “X”s: An Indicator of Quality

The value of an "X" varies from one company to another. However, for all manufacturers, the more "X"s, the higher the quality. Take the famous Stetson hat company, established in the United States since 1865. According to their own website, Stetson felts are made of rabbit, hare, beaver, mink, and chinchilla fur, as well as various blends of these furs in different proportions. A high number of "X"s is "an indicator of the proportion of beaver fur in the felt."

A Well-Kept Secret

Stetson is careful not to reveal the exact composition of its quality felts to the world, in order "to preserve its preeminent position as a manufacturer of headwear." Like companies such as Coca-Cola or KFC, Stetson "chooses not to share this secret formula."

Long-time fans of the brand will also have noticed that over the years, a given number of "X"s can mean two different things, making it very difficult to compare models across eras. However, we have compiled the tool below to help you get a functional idea of the types of felts available in each category, accompanied by an estimate of the relative contents of each fur*.

*This data is not exact and does not reflect any official and/or comprehensive documentation from Stetson or Hatco. It is compiled from reviews of various hat enthusiasts' blogs and publicly accessible data on Stetson products.

4X: Wool Felts

4X quality features wool felts, mainly from sheep but also, as in the case of the Corral 4X cowboy hat, from buffalo wool. These felts offer an excellent balance of durability and affordability, allowing you to expose your Stetson hat to all sorts of weather conditions. With regular care, such a hat can give you years of good service!

5X - 8X: Rabbit and Hare Fur Felts

5X to 8X quality felts are made of 100% fur felt, consisting of a blend of rabbit and hare fur in various proportions. Hare fur, more robust, and rabbit fur, softer, combine to form weather-resistant felts that can last for several decades! The Henri Henri hat shop offers, among others, the Catera, Dune, Pawnee, and Royal Flush cowboy hats in 5X quality, as well as the Skyline, Open Road 6X, Rancher 6X, and Munford 6X cowboy hats.

10X - 100X: Enter the Beaver Fur

This is where the jewel of any hat enthusiast comes into play: the famous beaver felt, prized for its softness, durability, and insulating, waterproof properties. Starting at 10X, other exclusive furs enter the composition of the felts: rabbit, hare, and beaver furs are joined by mink and chinchilla furs, which Stetson distributes according to quality in a symphony of softness and durability. For a bit of trivia, Stetson does manufacture a hat rated 1000X that contains no beaver felt. This collector cowboy hat is made of 100% chinchilla fur felt.

*The data in the table above is for indicative purposes only. This table does not reflect any official and/or comprehensive documentation from Stetson or Hatco. 

Henri Henri hat shop offers two models in this range of qualities: the Shasta 10X cowboy hat and the El Patron 30X cowboy hat. Due to the presence of beaver fur in the felt, these hats have increased water resistance. These luxurious cowboy hats deserve to proudly crown the collection of any hat enthusiast.

Title Image Source: Vintage-Haberdashers